Tuesday, 7 December 2010

Chicken Rillettes

Made recently for an "International Food Day" at my office. Rillettes is superior to the more widespread paté in my opinion, but it seems odd that you can only really find it in specialist shops and market stalls.

-1 chicken, sized according to how many there are to feed;
-Water, or white wine, or a mixture of both;
-Tarragon, coarsely chopped;
-Garlic, chopped. The more the better, 3 large cloves is a good quantity;
-A chunk of butter, about one third of a block;
-A generous dose of salt and pepper.

Joint the chicken, or have your butcher do it. Put the pieces into a large pot, add water or wine, and boil gently for about 90 minutes.

When done pull the meat from the bones, it should be very tender. Discard the latter, along with the skin and any remaining cartilage, and shred the former with a fork in a bowl. Keep the cooking liquor.

Mix in the rest of the ingredients, and also skim the fat from the surface of the liquor and add that too. You may need to add a little of the liquor to achieve a spreadable consistency. Taste as you mix, and add ingredients to bring a flavour to your liking. It should taste slightly too salty - when the rillettes is cold, the salt taste will be subdued. When satisfactory, put the mixture into a terrine dish or small bread tin.

Now reduce the cooking liquor to about a cupful - enough to cover the rillettes mixture by about a quarter of an inch. Allow to cool slightly, strain out any solids, and pour over the rillettes, slowly so as not to disturb it.

Place in the fridge. In about an hour or two, the liquor will have set to gelatine. To show off a little more, you could put some tarragon leaves or thinly sliced lemon in the gelatine before it sets.

Eat, on toast or fresh white bread.

Monday, 20 September 2010

Scallops with bacon and mushroom

A good savoury starter, perhaps preceding a lighter fish based main course.

For two people:
4 king scallops, sliced in half to make them thinner
3 rashers smoky bacon
150g mushrooms, button or sliced
Black pepper
Some white bread
50g butter

1. Melt the butter in a saucepan, and when it starts to simmer add the mushrooms. Cover and cook gently.
2. After 10-15 minutes, when the mushrooms are almost ready, add the bacon and scallops. Add some black pepper as well. Cook for a few minutes, no more than 5.
3. Serve on small plates, with the liquid poured over. Use the bread to soak up the sauce.

Sunday, 14 March 2010

Lemon chicken with mushroom sauce

Served this one on Mothering Sunday, and it was very well received. The mushroom sauce went well with the tangy chicken, and went well with some very smooth mashed potato. I like to make mash a little more interesting, the recipe shows what I did.

For the Chicken-
4 large chicken breasts, skinned
5 or 6 sprigs of dill weed, chopped
5 to 6 lemons, juiced thoroughly.

For the mushroom sauce
400g plain closed cup mushrooms, sliced
50g butter
200ml white wine
100ml double cream
Two or three pinches of ground nutmeg
Salt

For the mash
6 large potatoes, peeled and chopped into four
2 leeks, split down the middle and chopped
2 carrots, peeled and cut into short batons.
Butter

For the green bits
2 handfuls of sliced runner beans

The night before (or at least 2 hours beforehand):
1. Place the breasts in a bowl and immerse completely in the lemon juice, and mix in the dill. Cover and refridgerate.
2. Make the mushroom sauce by slowly cooking them in the butter. After about 5 minutes put in the white wine and bring to a simmer.
3. Keep simmering until reduced by about two-thirds, add the cream and mix in the nutmeg. Gently simmer 5 minutes more, and season with a little salt to taste.

On the day. Getting the timings right is the tricky part!
1. Heat the oven to 190C.
2. Drain off excess marinade from the chicken. Place in a roasting dish and cover (alternatively wrap each tightly in tin foil), and put in the oven for 25 minutes.
3. As soon as the chicken's in the oven, bring the potatoes and carrots to a boil, cook 20 minutes.
4. And whilst that's going, gently soften the leeks in some butter.
5. Next, reheat the mushroom sauce, and bring the beans to a boil.
6. When the potatoes are cooked, mash and mix in the leeks. Add butter and mash til the potatoes are completely smooth. A food processor does this nicely. You'll probably find the carrots and leeks don't mash, but this adds some tasty sweet lumpy bits. Season with salt.
7. Take the chicken out of the oven and drain off the excess liquid.
8. Serve on warmed plates; chicken, mash and beans. Pour the mushrooms and sauce over the mash and chicken.

There's quite a few little bits in this, so it is helpful to make up the mushroom sauce beforehand. Also the leeks could be prepared beforehand, and possibly the beans too.

Sunday, 28 February 2010

Sweet cured bacon

Why I don't make this more often and favour the salty cardboard variety of bacon from the supermarket I don't know. Anyway, started this 6 days ago and had some today. Salty, but a lovely sweetness too it too.

This mixture is per kg of pork belly, ribs removed. Leave the crackling on and don't score it.

25g salt
15g sugar
1-2 tablespoons crushed black peppercorns
1 teaspoon dried herbs, use a strong one like rosemary or oregano.

Mix all these together, and evenly spread in a non-reactive dish, large enough to fit the pork. Lay the pork on top, cover and refridgerate.

After about a week, drain off the liquid, give the meat a rinse and pat dry. Slice, grill, and enjoy with some English mustard and black pudding.

Tuesday, 5 January 2010

Gravadlax


Was in the shop the other day and caught the eye of the smoked salmon shelf. Now, I like smoked salmon, but the quantities available looked meagre, a few slices (if that) in each pack. Next shelf along, fillets of salmon, big ones. Hmmm.

So, I quickly decided I was going to make some gravadlax (Scandinavian style cured salmon), bought a half-kilo of salmon fillet, a pack of fresh dill and some cheap French mustard.

Pretty easy to make. You need the following:

A good sized side of salmon, all bones removed (about 500g).
A large handful (or more) of fresh dill weed.
3 tablespoons rock salt
3 tablespoons white sugar
Some greaseproof paper
Some tin foil
A box or pan large enough to hold the salmon flat.
A brick.
Patience.

1. Place the salmon, skin side down, in the pan or box.
2. Mix together the salt and sugar, and pour over the fish and spread it around.
3. Break up about half the dill with your hands, and layer on top.
4. Turn the fillet over carefully, and push any escaping ingredients back under the fillet.
5. Cover with the greaseproof paper and then the tin foil.
6. Weigh it down. the brick might cover it, if not, spread the load with a chopping board or anything of a suitable size. Remember the idea behind this is to press the salmon.
7. Put in the fridge (or somewhere at fridge temperature if it won't fit) for about a week.
8. Take your 50p jar of Asda mustard. Taste - it's quite sour. A good thing (I think). Finely chop the rest of the dill and mix into the mustard, and put in the fridge.
9. After 5 to 7 days, it's ready. The salmon should be nicely pressed and firm. Use a thin sharp knife to cut diagonal slices - cut away from the tail end. You can wipe off some of the remaining salt and dill if it's too strong. The mustard should be quite aromatic too.
10. This goes nicely with some flatbread, and a glass of good bubbly.

Monday, 28 December 2009

Galician stew

Made from a recipe from Floyd on Spain. I'm told Keith Floyd's older books are troublesome to find these days, hopefully some of them with be re-published very soon.

From the book:
"Virtually every garden, smallholding or farm in Galicia has a granary built of granite in which corn and potatoes can be stored for the winter. These curious little buildings, like emperors' tombs on stilts, are protected from the forces of evil by a Christian cross at one end and a pagan Celtic phallic-like symbol at the other.
Well, what has all this to do with the price of fish, I head you cry? Nothing, really, except that it is intriguing that there is a Celtic gastronomic theme, too, that threads its way from Galway to Cornwall, from Cornwall to Brittany, from Brittany to Galicia. Take the great Irish stew of boiled beef or bacon and cabbage and compare it with the Breton kig ha farz stew; take the original Cornish pasty and compare it with the Galician empanada.
And here is another one that fits into this gastronomic jigsaw puzzle; the mighty Cocido Gallego, a really robust country stew. Not what you would do for an intimate dinner party à deux, but the sort of dish that would be terrific for a bonfire night party. Perversely, I cooked it in high summer in a vineyard next to one of those granaries I have been wittering on about. Although it took hours to prepare, there was no real effort involved, just time. It was truly a feast fit for farmers, prophets, poets and politicians, rampaging Vikings or mystical Celts.

He then says it "serves lots". Mine serves less, but still a good number of people.

1-1.5kg gammon/ham joint. Fat and rind removed.
1-1.5kg oxtail, bone in
3 good sized chicken legs, skinned
4-5 large potatoes, peeled and quartered
3 6 inch chorizo sausages, skinned and thick sliced
Half a cabbage (any big one will do), shredded
1 can of chickpeas

1. Soak the ham joint several hours before cooking.
2. In a large pot, just cover the beef and ham with cold water and bring to a slow simmer.
3. After 90 minutes, add the chicken legs
4. 30 minutes later, add the potato
5. Another 30 minutes later, add the chorizo and cabbage
6. After a further 30 minutes, fish out the meats. Shred off the meat and discard bones and any gristle. Return the meat to the pot, along with the chickpeas.
7. Simmer a further 15 minutes, a taste the soup. Season as necessary, though you are unlikely to need to add salt.

Perfect for the December cold.

Tuesday, 22 December 2009

Pork liver pate

Here is something that will go a long way. It's very rich and livery, and compared to supermarket fare (which has a large amount of fat), it doesn't really spread to easily. You'll need to slice it instead.

500g minced pork
400g pork liver
100g fresh breadcrumbs
Level tbsp dried rosemary
2 tbsp coarse salt
2 cloves garlic
Knob of butter
1 medium onion
Half tsp ground nutmeg
Splash of port wine
2-3 slices of bacon

1. Heat your oven to 150C.
2. Finely chop the liver, add to a large bowl and mix in the minced pork and breadcrumbs.
3. Add the rosemary, generously season with salt.
4. Finely chop the garlic and mix in.
5. Finely chop the onion. Add the butter to a frying pan, melt, and gently fry the onion til translucent.
6. Mix in the nutmeg and port wine, and knead together with your hands.
7. Taste test - Take a small amount of the mixture and gently cook in a frying pan and allow to cool before tasting. Season as necessary.
8. When satisfactory, spoon the mixture into a terrine dish or bread tin. Add 2 or 3 slices of bacon on top and cover. Then put this in a larger roasting tin, and add boiling water to 3/4 way up the terrine dish / bread tin.
9. Cook in the oven for 90 minutes.
10. When done, remove and replace with tin foil. Place a weight on top to press the pate for 12-24 hours.
11. Leave in the fridge for a couple of days for the flavours to 'mingle'.

This will go nicely on some bread or toast as a starter, with a good dry Amontillado sherry.

Sunday, 6 December 2009

Savoury Lancashire Hotpot

A lovely simple recipe; pity I didn't make enough.

For (almost) two:
500g lamb neck
2 small red onions, chopped
1 large or 2 smaller carrots, peeled and cut into batons
2-3 tsp plain flour
1-2 tsp butter
Just-boiled water
Dried bay leaves
Potatoes, peeled and sliced to the thickness of a pound coin

Equipment-
Large saucepan and wooden spoon
A Le Creuset dish, or similar
Oven, preheated to 170C

1. Cut up the lamb into 1 inch chunks; trim off the excess fat and keep.
2. Warm a large saucepan, and put in the lamb fat. Bring to a sizzle and keep it there for about 30 minutes to render the fat; stir it around occasionally to keep it from sticking.
3. Remove the solids from the pan to leave the liquid fat. Add the lamb meat and brown on all sides; then remove to a shallow Le Creuset.
4. Fry the onion in the same pan; add some butter if necessary. Fry slowly for about 15 minutes until sticky and sweet but not burnt; then add the flour and cook off for a couple of minutes.
5. Add hot water whilst stirring, bit by bit, until you get a good consistency like that of double cream.
6. Pour the entire mixture into the Le Creuset, and add the carrot batons.
7. Season generously with salt and pepper, and carefully mix it all together.
8. Place a few bay leaves on top.
9. Layer the potato slices on top, making sure they overlap; season the top with a little salt and some butter.
10. Cover, and bake in the oven at 170C for an hour.
11. Remove the cover after the hour is up, turn up the heat to 220C to crisp the potatoes for another 20 minutes.
12. Serve up in hot breakfast bowls, with a glass of good port.

Monday, 14 September 2009

Chicken (or turkey!) and bacon patties

500g minced chicken/turkey
100g bacon, chopped into tiny bits
2 tbsp grated parmesan cheese

4 fresh large lettuce leaves

Very easy. A couple of hours before eating, mix together the mince, bacon and cheese with you hands in a bowl. Then divide into 2, 3 or 4. Roll each between your palms til it holds together properly, and gently flatten it evenly all over, to about 2cm thickness. Put back in the bowl, cover and refridgerate. To cook, grill or fry til lightly browned on each side, wrap in a lettuce leaf and enjoy with some mayo.

This is something that can be different each time. You could try using smokey bacon, perhaps add a handful of chopped tarragon, or few pinches of chilli powder, maybe even some ground cumin seeds ...

Saturday, 20 June 2009

Thick and filling Steak and Ale pie (with mash)

OK so there's a million other recipes also claiming to be the best, but here's another which is definitely the most superior ;o)

You will need:
1kg braising/chuck steak or brisket, cubed into bitesize pieces
1 large onion, finely chopped
500ml bottle of good ale (I used St Peter's Organic Bitter)
100-200ml hot water
1-2 tbsp Plain flour
1 tbsp Cornflour
2 beef stock cubes
Puff pastry (buy this as it's not worth bothering to make - unless you really want to, but you'll probably regret it)

Part One. Prepare the night before or in the morning.

1. In a wide saucepan, fry the onion til translucent, and the beef til sealed brown on the outside.
2. Add the plain flour - keep stirring so it doesn't stick - also add a little of the hot water to help but not too much.
3. Once the flour is cooked out, slowly add the beer, keeping it stirred. Slowly so it has a chance to come back to a boil, and also so it doesn't froth over.
4. Chuck in stock cubes and Bovril, and simmer til it's all dissolved nicely.
5. Add just enough more of the hot water so that the meat is only just covered.
6. If it's looking thin (it needs to be of a syrupy consistency), mix about a tablespoon of cornflour in a little cold water, and add to the pan. (If it's too thin the pastry will go soggy.)
7. Cover, and pop in the oven for 2 hours at 170C.

Part two. Pastry and serving it up.
1. Preheat your oven to 220C.
1. Put the beef and liquid into a smaller pot, so that it almost reaches the rim.
2. Line the rim with some of the pastry (makes a better seal), and then cover the pot with a sheet of pastry; trim the around the edges with a knife.
3. Cut a small hole in the middle to let the steam escape.
4. Put in the oven; after 15 mins, turn the heat down to 170C.
5. While cooking, make up some mash potato. I like to make it with lots of butter til creamy, no milk, a good dose of grated nutmeg and black pepper, with a little salt to bring out the flavours.
6. Serve, preferably with another bottle of ale. (What? You only bought one?)

Saturday, 25 April 2009

Coppa - Italian style dried pork shoulder - update

Took it down about a month ago. Not bad at all, very good raw, even better on a good pizza. The only thing is to cut the edges off as the painters and plasterers have been in. Unless you like paint and plaster dust.

Sunday, 19 April 2009

Dauphinoise potatoes (very rich version)

Previously, I've made this with more laborious methods, mixing some garlic and plenty of salt with crème fraiche. It was good, but really can't come close to this extremely rich, tasty, and artery-clogging version. Apparantly Elizabeth David said that you should, on no account, ever attempt a low fat version. It'd be about as tasty as those low fat cheeses and patés you find in crap supermarkets.

You will need (for about 4 or 5 people):
About 500g of waxy potatoes, such as Maris Piper, peeled and thinly sliced (about pound coin thickness)
1 large or 2 small cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
30g butter
300ml double cream
Salt and pepper

1. Heat the oven to 170C and put a 7 inch pie dish in for a couple of minutes to warm it.
2. Mix the crushed garlic with the butter, and generously smear the dish. Don't rub your eyes at this point.
3. Layer the potato slices in the dish closely, sprinkling a pinch of salt and pepper on each layer as you go.
4. Pour on 300ml of double cream, and press down on it lightly. It'll make a lovely squishy sound as the air trapped within finds its way out.
5. Bake in the oven for an hour. After that turn up the heat to 200C for another 15 minutes.
5. Remove and allow to stand for 15 more minutes before serving.

This was found to work well with a thick slice of roasted pork belly, some crackling, spinach on the side and a good earthey claret. It's important that the potatoes are waxy otherwise you'll end up with something close to creamy lumpy mashed potatoes. If you wanted creamy mashed potatoes, there's an easier way to make it than this. On the other hand, mash will rarely end up as a dauphinoise; I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who does achieve this.

Thursday, 9 April 2009

Fried mackerel with cream and mustard sauce

I’ve been having a fishy week. I watched some Japanese chefs preparing sashimi from live fish on youtube yesterday. Gruesome, I suppose, but then they are just fish. Must be really crap being a fish, swimming around and then getting killed and eaten (or the other way round in this case). Anyway, the chef popped the filleted fish back in the tank where it happily (or not) carried on swimming about.

So I bought some mackerel, and filleted them (pretending they were asleep), and put them in a goldfish bowl of water, where they duly sank lifelessly to the bottom. Oh well.

Anyway. Mackerel’s my favourite, and as well as being delicious baked or grilled whole with little or no seasoning, it has a richness that stands up to heavy seasoning. This little appetiser illustrates this – it should serve 3-4.

For the sauce:
150ml double cream
1 dessert spoon strong English mustard
Half tsp salt
1 clove garlic, crushed

For the fish:
3 mackerel, filleted, skin on
Salt
Pepper
Oil to fry

First make the sauce. Easy - mix together all the ingredients. You might like to whip the cream a little first to thicken it.

Now for the fish. Generously season the flesh side with salt and pepper. Heat a little oil in a frying pan, and place the fillets in skin side down. Fry hard. They ought to cook through without turning, and when they're done, turn them briefly to brown the flesh a little.

When the fish is almost done, warm the sauce very gently to about body temperature.

Serve simply – fish on the plate with the sauce decoratively poured over it. You might even like to posh it up with some parsley to garnish.

Monday, 9 February 2009

Pork rillettes

Improved version from the previous one on this blog. The last one was perhaps a little too buttery; this one has a meatier texture. More meat flavoured rillettes than butter flavoured, arguably a good thing.

You will need:

600-700g pork belly or shoulder, rind removed
200g butter
1 level tsp ground allspice
1 level tsp ground mace
2 crushed cloves of garlic
1 small onion, finely chopped
Handful of chopped sage and/or thyme
100ml dry sherry/white wine
Salt and ground black pepper to taste.

This will take about 90mins to make, mostly in cooking time.

1. Dice the pork into 1 inch cubes.
2. Melt half the butter in a saucepan, add the pork, garlic, onion, herbs, allspice and mace, cover and simmer slowly for an hour. Remember, you're not trying to fry it, so go easy with the heat. Occasionally stir it around to keep anything from burning to the bottom of the pan, but make sure it is covered to keep the heat in.
3. Put all the chunks of pork in a food processor and blend til smooth, and return it to the pan.
4. Mix the pasted meat into the liquid in the pan, add the wine, and season aggressively with salt and pepper.
5. Transfer the contents to a serving bowl, or ramekins for individual servings. Garnish the top with whatever you like - onion slices, pieces of orange, whole herbs.
6. Melt the rest of the butter in a pan and skim off the froth. Carefully pour the clear liquid over the paste to seal the contents, and refridgerate.

This recipes contain approximate quantities as it's all a matter of personal taste. I quite like those old cookbooks which give you a few ingredients that the author has thought of, and then basically said "cooke it". Experiment with the butter content - too much isn't a bad thing, just not as meaty. And it won't spread straight from the fridge. Less will be flakier and meatier. As it is served cold/cool, you will need to season it aggressively (I like that phrase, "to season aggressively") Also, adding the wine - cold - nearer the end helps to cool the paste quicker, enabling you to adjust the seasoning sooner. And some of the alcohol stays in too.

Thursday, 18 December 2008

Tomato soup

What?? No salt and fat? again??

Well, this was quite nice too, rich, thick and flavoursome.

500g tomatoes (the richer the better)
1 tsp powdered garlic
one finely chopped small onion, or 2-3 shallots
salt and pepper
olive oil
200g potatoes,
1 medium carrot
handful of chopped coriander or basil
700g jar of tomato passata
sugar

1. Preheat your oven to 190C

2. Put the tomatoes in a bowl and pour over boiling water to cover them. Drain after a minute and peel off the skins.

3. Chop in two and remove the green core bits, and seeds if you don't like 'em.

4. Arrange them tightly on a baking tray or large casserole pot, sprinkle with the powdered garlic, a couple of pinches of salt and a generous amount of black pepper. Then place the finely chopped onion across the them and finally drizzle lightly with olive oil. Place in the oven to bake uncovered for 40mins.

5. Meanwhile, peel and boil your potatoes and carrot in 400ml water. When done, (after 20-25mins), strain and set the potatoes and carrot to one side, and reduce the liquor by a third.

6. Place the tomatoes and juices, the potatoes and carrots, the cooking liquor, adding the coriander/basil, into a food processor, and blend til as smooth or coarse as you like.

7. Pour out into a large saucepan, and add the sugar and passata. Very gently heat it up. Add sugar/salt/pepper etc to taste. Small warning: it's more filling than it looks.